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Hill Country of Thailand Thailand's famous Hill County
Mae Hong Son - the lands below the wind, nestles in a valley surrounded by lush green, forested mountains. A short flight from Chiang Mai it is the most isolated northern provincial town in Thailand. Home to the refugees of the Padong (long-neck) Tribe which originate from Burma.
Chiang Rai, which was founded in 1262 by King Meng Rai, was the first capital of the Lanna Thai Kingdom which was later conquered by Burma. It was not until 1786 that Chiang Rai became a Thai territory and was proclaimed a province during the reign of King Rama VI in 1910. The Hill Country
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The main area of Hill
Country in Thailand is the exotically-named Golden Triangle
- along the borders with Burma and northwest Laos and the confluences
of the Meknog and Mae Kok rivers -and this is where most of tribal
groups are concentrated. In the settelment of the North, they
are newcomers; the main migration started only at the beginning
of this century. A census of studies put the hilltribe population
at a little short of half a million in 1983, most of this since
the end of the Second World War.
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Northern Thailand is hill country, and laid-back Chiang Rai is the perfect base to explore the region. Located 700 miles (1,100 km) north of Bangkok, the city is reached by a one-hour flight from the capital. Burma, once a prosperous land that now struggles under the heavy hand of a military government that renamed the country Myanmar, lies just 35 minutes northwest of Chiang Rai. Laos, another land that has seen its share of war, is 30 minutes northeast. The three countries meet in a fertile area called the Golden Triangle a region that was once the opium-producing capital of the world.
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Chiang Rai has a population of 1.2 million, yet it feels like a small town. After dropping my things at the Wiang Inn, which charges $35.00 USD for a lovely room and breakfast, I head out to the city's night bazaar. It's 8 pm, but the lanes are overflowing with vendors selling carvings, handcrafts and instruments all at amazingly low prices. There are dozens of food stands, and the rich smell of Thai cooking makes me hungry. One stand, I notice, offers plates of well-cooked beetles, crickets and bamboo larvae worms. Although the dishes smell good, somehow I can't get over the thought of eating bug legs. |
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The weather is warm, and I feel safe walking around town. There are families strolling on the uncrowded sidewalks, and shops are open for business. Many vendors smile in greeting, and give encouragement each time I try a few Thai words. The Thai, I soon discover, are a kind and gracious people.
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Yet the Thai are not the area's only residents. The nearby hills are home to six distinct hill tribes. The Akha, Karen, Lisu, Yao, Hmong and Lahu each have their own language and culture. These 540,000 tribal people lead remote lives, and a visit to their villages is like stepping back in time. Many of the villages have limited electricity and no indoor plumbing; homes are made of bamboo and thatched roofs. Most tribesmen depend on farming for their livelihood, and villages migrate between the steep hills of China, Thailand, Burma, Laos and Vietnam whenever the soil at their present location is depleted. |
Tourism to the hill tribe country is growing each year, and I can't wait to experience this unique side of Thailand. To familiarize myself on the region, I stop at the Hill Tribe Museum and Education Center for information on the various tribes.
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The Karen are known for using elephants in their farming, while the Lisu stay together as extended families. The Akha, who are spiritists, have a special gate at the village to prevent bad spirits, and the Lahu tribe prides themselves on their trapping and hunting skills. The Yau have a language and culture similar to the Chinese, and the Hmong have large families averaging eight children per family. The Karen (known to the Thais as Karieng and Yang) arrived fro mthe west, across the lower Salween River in Burma. The Lisu (Lisaw in Thai), Lahu (Muser) and Akha (Eekaw) crossed into Thailand mainly from Burma's Shan State in the north, while the Hmong (Meo) and Mien (Yao) crossed over the Mekong River from Laos. These migrations are, however, just the final stages of a much longer history of movement, and the ultimate origins of most of the tribes is shrouded in uncertainty. And, as none except the Mien have written records, there is little chance of unveiling their early history. |
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The tribes welcome visitors, and have come to depend on the economic boost tourism provides. Still, there are a few things to keep in mind when visiting the villages: Don't show physical affection (it's offensive). Don't enter a home without invitation or take photographs without asking first. Do be friendly and enjoy the visit.
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Northern Thailand is hill country,
and laid-back Chiang Rai is the perfect base to explore the region.
Located 700 miles (1,100 km) north of Bangkok, the city is reached
by a one-hour flight from the capital. Burma, once a prosperous
land that now struggles under the heavy hand of a military government
that renamed the country Myanmar, lies just 35 minutes northwest
of Chiang Rai. Laos, another land that has seen its share of war,
is 30 minutes northeast. The three countries meet in a fertile
area called the Golden Triangle, a region that was once the opium-producing
capital of the world.
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Northern Thailand has three main seasons: hot from March
to May, wet from June to November, and cool from December to February.
However, up in the mountains "cool" can be very cold. Winter
is the best time to visit the area.
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Temperatures from mid-November to January are the coldest and average between 13 °C and 28 °C (56 °F and 83 °F). Temperatures begin rising in February and in the hot season which is (March to May) range between 17 °C and 36 °C (63 °F and 97 °F). In the rainy season (June to mid-November), the high temps may drop but the lows usually stay the same. A jacket and long pants are a good thing to have in the winter. In the mountains, it should be cold in the morning and then warm up in the afternoon. During other seasons, you'll probably just be wearing a t-shirt and shorts. |
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Over 100 years ago, hill tribe people migrated south from China into what are now Burma, Laos, Vietnam, and Thailand. There are six major tribes in Northern Thailand that include the Karen (Kariang, Yang), the Hmong (Meo), the Yao (Mien), the Akha (Ekaw), the Lisu (Lisaw), and the Lahu (Mussur). Each tribe is district, with its own culture, religion, language, art, and dress. The main profession of all these tribes is farming. In the Thai language they are not referred to as tribes but as Chao Khao, meaning "owners of the mountains." For such a hard way of life, they are good humored and friendly people who welcome visitors.
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The largest group is the Karen,
which make up half of the hill tribe population in Thailand. They
live in the mountainous northern and northwestern regions bordering
Myanmar. They are the most settled of the hill tribes and live
in permanent villiages in well constructed houses. The Hmong are
a well-known hill tribe and the second largest group. They are
spread over a wide area of Northern Thailand but most are concentrated
in the Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Petchabun and Tak provinces. The
two main sub-groups are the Blue Hmong and White Hmong, named
after differences in dress.
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One of the main attractions in Northern Thailand is meeting some of the hill tribe people that live in these remote mountain areas. It is recommended that you have a tour guide while hiking and visiting these places. Proper etiquette is to dress modestly and to ask permission before taking any pictures of hill tribe people. There are numerous tour companies that visit hill tribes during treks.
Thank you summitpost.org

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